Power vs Torque in Bikes 2026

Understanding Power and Torque

Power and torque are the two fundamental measurements of engine performance, yet they’re often confused. Understanding the difference helps you choose bikes matching your riding style and interpret specifications correctly.

What is Torque?

Torque (Measured in Nm - Newton Meters)

Torque is rotational force - the twisting force the engine produces at the crankshaft. Think of it as the engine’s strength or pulling power.

Analogy: Imagine opening a tight jar lid. The force you apply to twist the lid is torque. More torque = easier to turn tight lid.

In Motorcycles: Torque determines how forcefully the engine can accelerate the bike from any given speed. Higher torque means stronger acceleration in any gear without downshifting.

Example:

• Royal Enfield Interceptor 650: 52 Nm at 5,250 RPM
• KTM 390 Duke: 37 Nm at 7,000 RPM

Despite the KTM having more power (43.5 PS vs 47 PS), the Interceptor’s higher torque provides stronger pull at lower RPMs.

What is Power?

Power (Measured in PS or BHP)

Power is the rate of doing work - how quickly the engine can deliver its torque. It’s calculated from torque and engine speed (RPM).

Formula: Power (PS) = Torque (Nm) × RPM ÷ 7,127

Or in BHP: Power (BHP) = Torque (Nm) × RPM ÷ 5,252

Analogy: Back to the jar lid - torque is the force you apply, power is how quickly you can repeatedly open many jars. High power = sustained high-speed work.

In Motorcycles: Power determines maximum speed and sustained high-speed performance. Higher power enables faster acceleration at high speeds and higher top speed.

PS vs BHP vs kW:

• 1 PS (Metric Horsepower) = 0.9863 BHP = 0.7355 kW
• PS is standard in India and Europe
• BHP (Brake Horsepower) used in UK/USA
• kW (Kilowatts) used in technical contexts
• Practically interchangeable (1 PS ≈ 1 BHP for rough comparison)

The Relationship Between Power and Torque

Power Comes FROM Torque

Power is mathematically derived from torque and RPM:

Example - TVS Apache RTR 160 4V:

• Torque: 14.73 Nm @ 7,250 RPM
• Power: 17.55 PS @ 9,250 RPM

At 7,250 RPM (peak torque): Power = 14.73 × 7,250 ÷ 7,127 = 15 PS

At 9,250 RPM (peak power): Torque = 17.55 × 7,127 ÷ 9,250 = 13.5 Nm

Key Insight: The engine makes peak torque at 7,250 RPM but makes most power at 9,250 RPM even though torque has dropped to 13.5 Nm. Why? Because the engine is spinning faster (higher RPM), delivering work more quickly.

Peak Torque vs Peak Power RPM

Low-RPM Torque Peak (Cruiser/Commuter):

• Royal Enfield Classic 350: 27 Nm @ 4,000 RPM
• Strong pull from low speeds
• Relaxed riding, less gear shifting
• Better for city and loaded touring

High-RPM Power Peak (Sport Bike):

• KTM RC 200: 25 PS @ 10,000 RPM
• Needs high revs for performance
• Frequent gear changes required
• Better for spirited riding and track

Practical Riding Implications

Torque in Real-World Riding

Scenario 1: City Riding at 40 km/h in 4th Gear

High Torque Bike (Royal Enfield Himalayan - 32 Nm @ 4,500 RPM):

• Cruising at 2,500 RPM
• Twist throttle → immediate strong acceleration
• No need to downshift
• Relaxed, stress-free riding

Low Torque Bike (Hero Glamour - 11 Nm @ 6,000 RPM):

• Cruising at 2,500 RPM
• Twist throttle → weak response
• Must downshift to 3rd or 2nd gear for acceleration
• More work, more gear changes

Verdict: High torque = lazy, effortless city riding

Torque for Loaded Riding

Scenario 2: Highway Riding with Luggage and Pillion

High Torque (Bajaj Dominar 400 - 35 Nm @ 6,500 RPM):

• Pulls strongly even with 80 kg total luggage + pillion
• Maintains highway speeds easily
• Overtaking possible without downshifting

Low Torque (TVS Apache RTR 160 2V - 14.5 Nm @ 6,500 RPM):

• Struggles with heavy load
• Needs downshifting for overtaking
• Top speed reduced significantly with load

Verdict: High torque essential for touring with luggage

Power in Real-World Riding

Scenario 3: Highway Overtaking at 80 km/h

High Power (KTM 390 Duke - 43.5 PS @ 9,000 RPM):

• Downshift to 4th gear, rev to 8,000+ RPM
• Explosive acceleration from 80 → 120 km/h
• Overtake completed in 3-4 seconds
• Exhilarating performance

Low Power (Honda Shine - 10.7 PS @ 7,500 RPM):

• Downshift to 4th gear, rev to redline
• Slow acceleration from 80 → 95 km/h
• Overtake takes 8-10 seconds
• Adequate but not thrilling

Verdict: High power = exciting performance, especially at speed

Power for Top Speed

Top Speed Correlation:

Top speed is primarily determined by peak power (and gearing/aerodynamics):

Low Power Examples:

• Hero Splendor Plus (8 PS): 85-90 km/h max
• Honda Shine (10.7 PS): 95-100 km/h max

Medium Power Examples:

• Yamaha FZ-S (12.2 PS): 110-115 km/h max
• Bajaj Pulsar NS160 (17.2 PS): 120-125 km/h max

High Power Examples:

• KTM 390 Duke (43.5 PS): 165-170 km/h max
• Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 (47 PS): 160-165 km/h max

Verdict: Want higher top speed? Need more power.

Torque Curve vs Power Curve

Understanding Power/Torque Graphs

Modern bike brochures show graphs plotting power and torque against RPM:

Flat Torque Curve (Example: Royal Enfield 650):

• Torque stays high (48-52 Nm) from 3,000-6,000 RPM
• Flexible, usable power across wide RPM range
• Less gear shifting needed
• Relaxed, easy riding
• Best for: Touring, city riding, beginners

Peaky Power Curve (Example: KTM RC 200):

• Torque peaks sharply at high RPM (7,500+ RPM)
• Must keep engine in narrow RPM range for performance
• Frequent gear changes required
• Rewards skilled riding
• Best for: Track days, spirited riding, experienced riders

”Specific Output” - Power Per Liter

Specific output measures how much power an engine produces per liter (or per cc) of displacement:

Formula: Specific Output = Power (PS) ÷ Displacement (Liters)

Low Specific Output (Understressed, Durable):

• Royal Enfield Himalayan: 24.3 PS ÷ 0.411L = 59 PS/L
• Long-stroke, low-revving, torquey
• Very reliable, low maintenance
• Good fuel economy

Medium Specific Output (Balanced):

• Honda Shine: 10.7 PS ÷ 0.124L = 86 PS/L
• Balance of performance and efficiency
• Good reliability

High Specific Output (Performance-Focused):

• KTM RC 200: 25 PS ÷ 0.200L = 125 PS/L
• High-revving, powerful, advanced tech
• Requires premium maintenance
• Lower fuel economy

Verdict: Higher specific output = more performance but higher stress on engine

Which Matters More: Power or Torque?

Choose High-Torque Bikes If You:

• Ride mostly in city traffic (40-60 km/h average speeds)
• Tour with luggage and pillion frequently
• Prefer relaxed riding without constant gear changes
• Value low-end pull over top-end performance
• Want fuel efficiency with adequate performance
• Are beginner or intermediate rider

Recommended High-Torque Bikes:

• Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 (52 Nm @ 5,250 RPM)
• Bajaj Dominar 400 (35 Nm @ 6,500 RPM)
• Royal Enfield Himalayan (32 Nm @ 4,500 RPM)
• Honda CB350 (30 Nm @ 3,000 RPM)

Choose High-Power Bikes If You:

• Frequently ride on highways at 80-120 km/h
• Enjoy spirited, aggressive riding
• Want maximum top speed and overtaking ability
• Don’t mind keeping engine in high RPM range
• Prioritize performance over fuel economy
• Are experienced, skilled rider

Recommended High-Power Bikes:

• KTM 390 Duke (43.5 PS @ 9,000 RPM)
• Bajaj Pulsar NS200 (24.5 PS @ 9,750 RPM)
• TVS Apache RTR 200 4V (20.5 PS @ 9,000 RPM)

The Ideal: Both!

Best All-Rounders (Good Power AND Torque):

• Royal Enfield Interceptor 650: 47 PS + 52 Nm
• Bajaj Dominar 400: 39.4 PS + 35 Nm
• KTM 390 Duke: 43.5 PS + 37 Nm

These bikes deliver strong torque for effortless riding plus adequate power for performance when needed.

Common Misconceptions

Myth 1: “More Torque is Always Better”

Reality: Excessive torque on a lightweight bike can be unmanageable for beginners and wheelie-prone. Balance matters.

Myth 2: “Torque Doesn’t Matter for Top Speed”

Reality: While power determines top speed, you need torque to reach it, especially on uphill sections or with load.

Myth 3: “Power and Torque are Unrelated”

Reality: They’re mathematically linked. You cannot have high power without decent torque at some RPM.

Myth 4: “PS and BHP are Very Different”

Reality: 1 PS = 0.986 BHP. The difference is negligible (less than 2%). Use interchangeably for practical purposes.

Practical Buying Advice

Reading Specifications

When comparing bikes, note WHERE peak torque and power occur:

Bike A: 20 PS @ 9,000 RPM, 18 Nm @ 7,500 RPM

• High-revving, peaky performance
• Needs frequent gear changes
• Exciting but demanding

Bike B: 18 PS @ 7,000 RPM, 18 Nm @ 5,500 RPM

• Lower peak power BUT more accessible
• Broader, more usable power band
• Easier, more relaxed riding

Verdict: Bike B likely feels faster in real-world riding despite lower peak power, because its power is more accessible.

Test Ride Focus

During test rides, assess:

Torque Feel:

• Accelerate from 30 km/h in 3rd gear without downshifting
• Strong pull = good low-end torque
• Weak response = must rev higher or downshift

Power Feel:

• Accelerate from 60 km/h in 4th gear, full throttle
• Strong surge to 100+ km/h = good power
• Plateaus early = limited power

Conclusion

Power and torque are complementary measurements of engine performance, each telling part of the story. Torque determines low-speed pulling strength and acceleration force, while power determines sustained high-speed performance and top speed.

For most riders, especially beginners and city commuters, torque matters more for daily riding enjoyment - strong low-end torque makes riding effortless and relaxed. For experienced riders prioritizing performance and highway riding, power becomes more important.

Key Takeaways:

1. Torque = rotational force (Nm), Power = rate of work (PS/BHP)
2. High torque = strong low-end pull, easy city riding, good for touring
3. High power = high top speed, sustained performance, exciting riding
4. Check WHERE peak torque/power occur, not just peak numbers
5. Ideal bikes balance both: good torque at low RPM + adequate peak power

Ultimate Advice: Test ride focusing on low-end pull (torque feel) and high-speed acceleration (power feel) to understand which bike suits YOUR riding style.